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THE MANIFESTO IS MUTATING!  IT IS TURNING INTO A WIKI THAT CAN BECOME THE HIVE MIND OF ALL COSTUMERS, FINALLY LIVING UP TO IT'S SLOGAN: "COSTUMERS OF THE WORLD, UNITE!" YOU CAN HELP IN THIS PROCESS BY MOVING PAGES TO THE NEW SITE AT THECOSTUMERSMANIFESTO.COM, HELPING TO EDIT THE PAGES THAT ARE THERE ALREADY, AND ADDING YOUR OWN ORIGINAL INPUT.

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Things No One Tells You About Sewing Machines

1. The bottom layer of your sewing will "creep" because of the better traction of the feed dogs - therefore, if you want to ease something into a seam, always put the larger amount on the bottom side and the machine will help do your easing for you.

2. All bobbin cases have a little metal slot which the thread goes through. If you put the bobbin in line so the thread when naturally unwinding will fall in the slot, then the bobbin will be loaded correctly. If you are unsure about whether or not the bobbin is loaded correctly, pull on the thread. The bobbin should turn in the opposite direction the thread is being pulled. It is not necessary to thread through the hole in the bobbin arm on home machines - that screws things up.

3. If in doubt about the way to thread a machine, remember that nearly all machines go from the spool to a hook, through a tension disc, to another hook, and either down over a set of bars (new machines) or through a series of hooks (old machines) to the needle.

4. Most needles thread front to back, but in a few old machines they thread left to right. Most machines that go L. to R. have the last few hooks go down the left side of the machine instead of the front. This is sometimes a clue that the needle front belongs on the left side.

5. All machine needles have an obvious front and back. The front has a long thin groove going along the whole length of the shaft, the back has a short indentation near the tip around the hole. This is true even of needles that go on industrials.  What You Ought To Know About Sewing Machine Needles, NF 96-250

6. 80% of the time, when the thread keeps breaking, it is because the needle has a rough spot or it is in backwards. If it is in forwards, replace the needle.

7. 15% of the time it's because someone left the thread on a windowsill and the light "ate" the thread until it was weak. If your thread has rotted, roll off two whole outside layers of the spool and try again. If the spool has been in sunlight too long, you may need a new spool of thread altogether.
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8. 5% of the time thread breaks because the "timing" of the machine is off. Industrials usually include retiming instructions in the manual of operation. Home machines usually require a trip to the shop to fix this.

9. Excessive knotting and looping of the thread usually means that your thread has escaped from the tension disc. This usually happens when A. The machine is threaded wrong (Don't forget the hooks), B. The tension is too tight, or C. The tension is too loose. With new stitchers (very new) it is sometimes that they forget to put down the pressure foot!

10. Another factor that causes lots of problems is using large industrial cones on home machine spindles and using small plastic home-size spools on industrial spindles. The only size spools that work on both kinds of machines with any kind of consistency are the mid-sized industrial tubes of cheap cotton. If you have knotting or breakage, make sure you are using the correct spool size.

11. In many costume shops a standard 1'' or 1/2'' seam allowance is used on all garments. When this is the case, it is advisable to put a tape mark on the machine plate to indicate to the less experienced sewers where to put the edge of the fabric.


Yes, it's me again. I got to the "Things Nobody Tells You About Sewing Machines" section, and I  think I have something to add that might be helpful to novices.

If a sewing machine threads from Left to Right instead of front to back, chances are pretty good that the bobbin case is on the side, too. One of my teachers stated that as a good rule of thumb. "The front of the needle faces the bobbin case." I haven't personally sewn on a large number of machines since I've heard the rule, but all six I've dealt with definitely conformed to it. 

Ruth Marie 

So, why not come down to Rm 107 in the Fine Arts Complex and try sewing for THEATRE PRACTICUM credit?

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The Costumer's Manifesto is proudly hosted by William Baker.

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This Page is part of The Costumer's Manifesto by Tara Maginnis, Ph.D.  Copyright 1996-2010.   You may print out any of these pages for non-profit educational use such as school papers, teacher handouts, or wall displays.  You may link to any page in my site.