The Costumer's Manifesto is written by Tara Maginnis, and proudly hosted by William Baker.

THE MANIFESTO IS MUTATING!  IT IS TURNING INTO A WIKI THAT CAN BECOME THE HIVE MIND OF ALL COSTUMERS, FINALLY LIVING UP TO IT'S SLOGAN: "COSTUMERS OF THE WORLD, UNITE!" YOU CAN HELP IN THIS PROCESS BY MOVING PAGES TO THE NEW SITE AT THECOSTUMERSMANIFESTO.COM, HELPING TO EDIT THE PAGES THAT ARE THERE ALREADY, AND ADDING YOUR OWN ORIGINAL INPUT.

 

Note:  This workbook was made in 1984-85 as part of my my MA Project at California State University Fresno.  It was intended as a text workbook for the Advanced Costume Construction class to use in the costume properties portion of the class. Certain portions of the text now border on the antique because of the date at which it was written, for example under "Materials" in 1985 a hot glue gun was an unusual craft supply, only obtainable at hardware stores.  I hope you will bear with these small oddities and look to the basics of this work, intended as an introduction to several basic costume crafts processes. --TM

PROJECT 10
A FELT HAT USING STANDARD FABRIC STORE CRAFT FELT

 PICT0090.JPG (84051 bytes) PICT0091.JPG (77334 bytes) PICT0092.JPG (83107 bytes)      
Felt Hat by Lorraine Pettit, made using this method


This project is important for two reasons. First, it shows the student how to "block" the crowns of hats (useful for buckram as well as felt) which is necessary for making any round crowned type hat. Second, it shows the student how to make a felt hat without using difficult to-find hatter's felt. Since many theaters cannot afford the time or money to acquire hatter's felt, this is a useful skill for the costume props technician. Standard felt is available in a great variety of colors at most fabric stores and is fairly inexpensive.


A FELT HAT USING STANDARD FABRIC STORE FELT

P u r p o s e :

M a t e r i a l s :

Procedure:

A. If you do not have a wooden hat block, glue several' thick Styrofoam blocks together with white glue. Dry. Carve into the size and shape of hat block you need Coat with white glue Dry.

B. Cover the hat block (wood or foam) with plastic wrap. Pin down to bottom edge of block with T-pins. Make sure to leave no gaps where felt can stick to block. Wrap a rubber band around pin line.

 

C. Measure across widest point of block and add 3" Cut two circles of felt to that diameter, This will give you extra overlap in case of error. 

D. Get one layer of felt completely wet. Lay on block, centering with a T-pin. Pull felt, gently at first, down t bottom edge of block. From opposite sides affix with T-pins, halving, quartering., etc. the block. Remove top

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E .Working the felt harder now, pull the felt down on opposite sides until the bottom edge is smooth and pinned every inch or so. Wrap a rubber band around the pin Iine.

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F .Coat the felt with a thick layer of white glue using the I" brush Repeat the wetting, stretching, and pinning steps with the second layer of felt. The white of the glue may show through, but will dry clear.

G. When dry, pull felt off of block and trim excess felt off of bottom of crown, as shown.

H. Cut out of felt to desired brim size plus 2". Dampen the felt pieces and sandwich together with a thick layer of white glue between them to make a double layer.

I. When felt brim is damp but not wet, press it down with a hot iron using a press cloth.
When brim is stuck together but not yet fully dry, cut out a hole in the center of the brim 1" 
all around the crown circumference.

J. Pull brim over head block down to the pin line and fix in place with pins.

PICT0092.JPG (83107 bytes) Photo: This hat has the crown put on thee opposite way.  Both methods work.

K. Stitch hat crown to hat brim with the edge of the crown coming over the edge of the brim, shown. Use heavy buttonhole and carpet thread.

PICT0094.JPG (80032 bytes) Photo: This hat has the crown put on thee opposite way.  Both methods work.

L. If brim needs extra stiffness, zigzag hat wire along the edge of brim and cover with grosgrain ribbon or seam binding.

PICT0093.JPG (73678 bytes) Photo: the hat wire zigzagged to the edge. 

M. On the inside of the crown, stitch grosgrain ribbon as I stabilizing hat band. This will prevent the hat stretching out with wear. Trim hat to suit taste.


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This Page is part of The Costumer's Manifesto by Tara Maginnis, Ph.D.  Copyright 1996-2010.   You may print out any of these pages for non-profit educational use such as school papers, teacher handouts, or wall displays.  You may link to any page in my site.