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Note: This workbook was made in 1984-85 as part of my my MA Project at California State University Fresno. It was intended as a text workbook for the Advanced Costume Construction class to use in the costume properties portion of the class. Certain portions of the text now border on the antique because of the date at which it was written, for example under "Materials" in 1985 a hot glue gun was an unusual craft supply, only obtainable at hardware stores. I hope you will bear with these small oddities and look to the basics of this work, intended as an introduction to several basic costume crafts processes. --TM
PROJECT 10
A FELT HAT USING STANDARD FABRIC STORE CRAFT FELT
Felt Hat by Lorraine
Pettit, made using this method
This project is important for two reasons. First, it shows the student how to
"block" the crowns of hats (useful for buckram as well as felt) which is
necessary for making any round crowned type hat. Second, it shows the student how to make
a felt hat without using difficult to-find hatter's felt. Since many theaters cannot
afford the time or money to acquire hatter's felt, this is a useful skill for the costume
props technician. Standard felt is available in a great variety of colors at
most fabric stores and is fairly inexpensive.
A FELT HAT USING STANDARD FABRIC STORE FELT
P u r p o s e :
To learn to block and steam standard fabric store felt into a hat shape.
M a t e r i a l s :
Wooden hat block or several thick styrofoam blocks glued together and carved into a head block
Ordinary wool felt
White glue
box of "T" pins
Plastic wrap
Paintbrush 1" wide
Steam iron
2/3 yard grosgrain ribbon, matching color of felt
Large rubber bands
Hat wire (optional, as needed)
Carpet thread
Procedure:
A. If you do not have a wooden hat block, glue several' thick Styrofoam blocks together with white glue. Dry. Carve into the size and shape of hat block you need Coat with white glue Dry.

D. Get one layer of felt completely wet. Lay on block, centering with a T-pin. Pull felt, gently at first, down t bottom edge of block. From opposite sides affix with T-pins, halving, quartering., etc. the block. Remove top
E .Working the felt harder now, pull the felt down on opposite sides until the bottom edge
is smooth and pinned every inch or so. Wrap a rubber band around the pin Iine.
F .Coat the felt with a thick layer of white glue using the I" brush Repeat the wetting, stretching, and pinning steps with the second layer of felt. The white of the glue may show through, but will dry clear.

G. When dry, pull felt off of block and trim excess felt off of bottom of crown, as shown.
H. Cut out of felt to desired brim size plus 2". Dampen the felt pieces and sandwich together with a thick layer of white glue between them to make a double layer.
I. When felt brim is damp
but not wet, press it
down with a hot iron
using a press cloth.
When brim is stuck
together but not yet fully dry, cut out a hole in the center of
the brim 1"
all around the crown circumference.
J. Pull brim over head block down to the pin line and fix in place with pins.
Photo: This hat has the crown put on thee
opposite way. Both methods work.
K. Stitch hat crown to hat brim with the edge of the crown coming over the edge of the brim, shown. Use heavy buttonhole and carpet thread.
Photo: This hat has the crown put on thee opposite way. Both methods
work.
L. If brim needs extra stiffness, zigzag hat wire along the edge of brim and cover with grosgrain ribbon or seam binding.
Photo: the hat wire zigzagged to the edge.
M. On the inside of the crown, stitch grosgrain ribbon as I stabilizing hat band.
This will prevent the hat stretching out with wear. Trim hat to suit taste.
Return to Costume Properties Construction Handbook
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