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THE MANIFESTO IS MUTATING!  IT IS TURNING INTO A WIKI THAT CAN BECOME THE HIVE MIND OF ALL COSTUMERS, FINALLY LIVING UP TO IT'S SLOGAN: "COSTUMERS OF THE WORLD, UNITE!" YOU CAN HELP IN THIS PROCESS BY MOVING PAGES TO THE NEW SITE AT THECOSTUMERSMANIFESTO.COM, HELPING TO EDIT THE PAGES THAT ARE THERE ALREADY, AND ADDING YOUR OWN ORIGINAL INPUT.

 

Note:  This workbook was made in 1984-85 as part of my my MA Project at California State University Fresno.  It was intended as a text workbook for the Advanced Costume Construction class to use in the costume properties portion of the class. Certain portions of the text now border on the antique because of the date at which it was written, for example under "Materials" in 1985 a hot glue gun was an unusual craft supply, only obtainable at hardware stores.  I hope you will bear with these small oddities and look to the basics of this work, intended as an introduction to several basic costume crafts processes. --TM

PR0JECT 3

QUICK LATEX NOSE (POSITIVE MOLD)

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This method for making latex objects is fast but somewhat crude. It should be used in situations where speed is the primary object and a natural effect is not desired as in a clown, monster or fairy makeup. A nose created with this method is reasonably sturdy, very flexible but rather rough textured.

QUICK LATEX NOSE (POSITIVE MOLD)

Purpose: To learn to work with Latex in a simple form

Materials:

 

Procedure:

A. On the plaster life mask build up the nose shape in plasticine. Spray
with "PAM".

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B. Work liquid soap into bristles of paint brush. This will allow you to wash the latex out of the brush as long as it stays wet.

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C. Paint a thin coat of latex on the nose shape. Wash the brush.

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D.When the first layer of latex has dried, cut a piece of nylon hose big enough to completely cover the nose. Press it down over the nose, smoothing down wrinkles as you cover it with another layer of latex.

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E. When the nylon layer completely dry, paint another coat of latex over it and continue painting layers until the latex is thick enough not to tear. Always let latex dry completely between coats, or the latex will be weakened considerably.

F. (Optional) Put mask and latex in gas oven overnight with only the pilot light running. This will "cure" the latex to an extra toughness.

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G. When the nose is completely dry, powder the outside with talcum powder so that the outside surface is made non-sticky and gently remove it from the plaster face. Make sure the inside of the nose doesn't touch itself while you remove it or it will stick to itself.

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H. Remove any stray piece of plasticine from the inside of the nose and then powder the inside of the latex with talcum. Trim and cut nose holes as needed.

I. If you plan to do project #5 save the nose for it. If you do not, latex can be tolerably painted with "Magix" shoe spray instead, or left plain to be colored with makeup. 2003 NOTE: I NO LONGER RECOMMEND USING "MAGIX" SHOE SPRAY FOR THIS APPLICATION AS IT IS A TOXIC PAINT.  USE SOFT ACRYLIC PAINT FOR FABRICS INSTEAD.

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This Page is part of The Costumer's Manifesto by Tara Maginnis, Ph.D.  Copyright 1996-2010.   You may print out any of these pages for non-profit educational use such as school papers, teacher handouts, or wall displays.  You may link to any page in my site.