The Costumer's Manifesto is written by Tara Maginnis, and proudly hosted by William Baker.

THE MANIFESTO IS MUTATING!  IT IS TURNING INTO A WIKI THAT CAN BECOME THE HIVE MIND OF ALL COSTUMERS, FINALLY LIVING UP TO IT'S SLOGAN: "COSTUMERS OF THE WORLD, UNITE!" YOU CAN HELP IN THIS PROCESS BY MOVING PAGES TO THE NEW SITE AT THECOSTUMERSMANIFESTO.COM, HELPING TO EDIT THE PAGES THAT ARE THERE ALREADY, AND ADDING YOUR OWN ORIGINAL INPUT.

 

Note:  This workbook was made in 1984-85 as part of my my MA Project at California State University Fresno.  It was intended as a text workbook for the Advanced Costume Construction class to use in the costume properties portion of the class. Certain portions of the text now border on the antique because of the date at which it was written, for example under "Materials" in 1985 a hot glue gun was an unusual craft supply, only obtainable at hardware stores.  I hope you will bear with these small oddities and look to the basics of this work, intended as an introduction to several basic costume crafts processes. --TM

PROJECT 4

DETAILED LATEX MASK (NEGATIVE MOLD)
Creating a negative mold from which to cast a mask is more difficult and time-consuming than working on a positive mold as in project #3. However, the results are far more satisfactory, and, depending on the needs of the show may be worth the extra effort.

Incredible detail and texture can be created using a negative mold, as the plaster will pick up almost any detail you can mold in the plasticine positive mold. Negative molds are used to create the expensive type of Halloween monster masks and usually the pieces used in complex film makeup are made in negative molds as well. The negative mold allows You to pick up the tiny modelling of warts, wrinkles, skin texture, scars, and so on and transfer them intact to the latex. Modeling this kind of detail into the plasticine base is therefore recommended for the most worthwhile results in your project.

DETAILED LATEX MASK (NEGATIVE MOLD)
P u r p o s e:

To learn the process of negative mold making and casting using a negative mold.


M a t e r i a l s :

Procedure:

A. On the plaster face cast build up the features as you did in Project
#2,step A. Negative molds can give greater detail than the methods used in projects #2 and #3,so use designs that make use of wrinkles. warts or unusual skin textures

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B. Spray plasticine with "PAM" (or coat with Vaseline) so that the face form is completely greased

C. Mix plaster with water as indicated in the package directions. Brush on a thick layer of plaster being sure to avoid air bubbles in corners. Lay cheese cloth for strength over first layer, tucking into the corners. Pour plaster over the cheesecloth thickly. Dry.

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D. Pull plaster off the face cast without breaking either one. The new plaster piece is the negative mold. Clean any stray pieces of plasticine caught in the mold. Spray the inside of the mold with "PAM"

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E. Mix liquid soap into the bristles of the paintbrush to prevent the latex from sticking to the bristles. Coat the inside of the mold with a thin layer of latex using the brush. Wash the brush and let the latex dry completely.

F. Repeat Step E, 3 or more times until latex is around 1/16" thick. Always let the latex dry completely between coats. Moist latex which is painted over with a second coat is trapped inside and can never dry. This can weaken the mask.

G. Cut a piece of nylon pantyhose large enough to cover the inside of the mold. With a brush stick the nylon into the corners of the mold and paint it with a layer of latex. Dry.

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H. Paint several more layers of latex over the nylon, always letting latex dry between coats, and always soaping and cleaning the brush. If the brush should get clogged, running a wire brush through it can remove most latex.

I. Powder the inside of latex with talcum powder. Gently peel the latex mask away from the plaster. Powder the latex as you peel it so that it will not stick to itself.

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J. Trim and cut holes in the mask as needed. If you plan to do project #5, save the mask for work on it. If you do not, spray with "Magix" shoe spray or color with makeup as needed. 2003 NOTE: I NO LONGER RECOMMEND USING "MAGIX" SHOE SPRAY FOR THIS APPLICATION AS IT IS A TOXIC PAINT.  USE SOFT ACRYLIC PAINT FOR FABRICS INSTEAD.

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This Page is part of The Costumer's Manifesto by Tara Maginnis, Ph.D.  Copyright 1996-2010.   You may print out any of these pages for non-profit educational use such as school papers, teacher handouts, or wall displays.  You may link to any page in my site.