The Costumer's Manifesto is written by Tara Maginnis, and proudly hosted by William Baker.

THE MANIFESTO IS MUTATING!  IT IS TURNING INTO A WIKI THAT CAN BECOME THE HIVE MIND OF ALL COSTUMERS, FINALLY LIVING UP TO IT'S SLOGAN: "COSTUMERS OF THE WORLD, UNITE!" YOU CAN HELP IN THIS PROCESS BY MOVING PAGES TO THE NEW SITE AT THECOSTUMERSMANIFESTO.COM, HELPING TO EDIT THE PAGES THAT ARE THERE ALREADY, AND ADDING YOUR OWN ORIGINAL INPUT.

 

Note:  This workbook was made in 1984-85 as part of my my MA Project at California State University Fresno.  It was intended as a text workbook for the Advanced Costume Construction class to use in the costume properties portion of the class. Certain portions of the text now border on the antique because of the date at which it was written, for example under "Materials" in 1985 a hot glue gun was an unusual craft supply, only obtainable at hardware stores.  I hope you will bear with these small oddities and look to the basics of this work, intended as an introduction to several basic costume crafts processes. --TM

PROJECT 9
SHOP-MADE EDWARDIAN HATPINS

Real Edwardian (1901-1911) hatpins are skyrocketing in price because they have become the object of many antique collectors fancies. Their 8" - 12" long shanks are the only really secure way of attaching a large-crowned hat to the head (such as the hat in project #8). Further, the average made-for-the-stage Edwardian hat is of an exaggerated size and greater weight than a real period hat, so hatpins of 10" - 14" length and stronger wire are needed.

It behooves a costume shop to make a stock of its own hatpins, longer and heavier than the antique originals and more inexpensive than antique ones, as well.

SHOP-MADE EDWARDIAN HATPINS

P u r p o s e :

  • To make hatpins long enough to secure large-crowned period hats to the head.

M a t e r i a 1 s:
       

P r o c e d u r e:

A. Cut the brazing rod into 3-4 equal parts, with the wire cutters. Ask the shop foreman for permission and instruction in sharpening points on one end of each piece with the rotary grinder, as shown. Wear goggles.

B. Put a drop of "Superglue" inside the holes of the large beads. Thread the unsharpened ends of the rods into the holes and hold until glue dries securely.


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This Page is part of The Costumer's Manifesto by Tara Maginnis, Ph.D.  Copyright 1996-2010.   You may print out any of these pages for non-profit educational use such as school papers, teacher handouts, or wall displays.  You may link to any page in my site.