NYLON
FROM
STOCKINGS TO SPACESUITS WITHOUT A SNAG!
By Nancy Kelley, President,
Textile Fabric Consultants
1939
A
year of optimism
Despite the growing war in Europe, the Great Depression
was winding down, and prosperity was just around the corner.
The release of Gone With the Wind and The Wizard of Oz was a
stark contrast to the Noble Prize in Physics awarded to Ernest Lawrence for his
development of the cyclotron, a crucial step in the production of nuclear
reaction.
In the same year millions of visitors flocked to two
worlds fairs to catch a glimpse of the wonders of the future.
At the fair in New York City, Franklin D. Roosevelt became the first U.S.
President to appear on television. At
the San Francisco fair, spectators were mesmerized as nylon stocking made their
public debut. At the DuPont Companys exhibition, nylons raw materials
(coal, air and water) were inserted into one end of a simulated machine and a
pair of sheer stockings miraculously emerged from the other end. Thus nylon was
introduced to the public by means of womens hosiery, and became an instant
success
the worlds first synthetic fiber and the first fiber developed in
the United States.
Earlier, E. I. DuPont de Nemours and Company had
begun a fundamental research program to study polymers or giant molecules. The
chemists found an unusual characteristic in one of the polymers under
investigation. When a glass
stirring rod was pulled away from the solution, a fine filament that hardened
when exposed to air was formed. When
it was stretched, it produced a flexible, strong and attractive fiber.
The company devoted itself to improving the polymer, finding efficient
methods for manufacturing it, developing the necessary equipment for its
production, and most importantly, finding possible uses for the new nylon fiber.
It was months after the worlds fair
exhibition before anyone could buy nylon hosiery.
That day came in the autumn of 1939.
Sales were limited to a few retail outlets. Nylon stockings were
launched, heralded by a well-planned advertising campaign.
Hundreds of women lined the downtown streets waiting for the half-dozen
shops to open so they could buy nylons. The
entire supply was sold within hours. Sales
of silk stockings dropped to nothing. It
was the classic example of a successful mass marketing of a new product.
But women hardly had a chance to get use to the
luxury of nylon before the fiber was classified as an essential material and
went to war. All nylon
production was funneled into the war effort.
Nylon was used for making ropes, parachutes, tents and tire cord for
heavy bombers and fighter planes. Nylon
was also used to filter blood plasma and as sewing thread for shoes and apparel.
Gone was the worry of diseases, pests, floods and other disasters that
cold diminish the supplies of natural fibers such as silk, cotton, linen and
wool.
After the war, nylon production or civilian use was
reinstated. When nylon hosiery went
back on the market in early 1946, patrolmen and mounted police were on duty.
One Georgia newspaper headline claimed Women Risk Life and Limb in
Bitter Battle for Nylons. When a survey asked women what they missed the most
during the war, 20% said they missed men the most.
40% said nylons!
Because of performance characteristics and
versatility, nylon has been holding its own in a volatile textile market.
Nylon is widely used in fabric for apparel, home furnishings, industrial
applications, and geo-textiles. Nylon
remains one of the most widely used fibers overall.
Only polyester and cotton are used in greater quantities than nylon. Nylon is often blended with other fibers to provide fabrics
with good dimensional stability, elastic recovery, shape retention, and abrasion
resistance.
It is the leading fiber in the manufacture of
womens hosiery and lingerie. No
other fiber has been able to compete with nylon in the hosiery market.
High elongation and excellent elastic recovery contribute to the fibers
success.
Many carpeting materials and upholstery fabrics
are made of nylon because it wears well, is easy to clean, and does not require
special protection against moths and carpet beetles. Nylons are popular in carpeting because they resist crushing,
do not show soil quickly and retain an attractive appearance
One of the major advantages of nylon fibers is
their strength. It is used in many
industrial products such as seat belts, tire cords, ballistic cloth, and
towropes. It is a highly elastic
fiber with good elongation properties. This
contributes to outstanding shape retention for nylon fabrics. Nylon also has very good recovery properties from
creasing, wrinkling or crushing. Because
nylon is thermoplastic, or heat-sensitive, it can be hear-set during processing
so that it will retain its shape
during use and care. The fiber will stretch but will return to its original
size. Age appears to have little
effect on the fiber. If stored away
from light and other deteriorating influences, nylon will last for many years.
Nylon introduced the concept of easy-care garments.
It can be washed safely at all temperatures and tumbled dried.
Since nylon has low absorbency, it dries quickly.
Most manufacturers of nylon state that any type of soap or detergent may
be used. Most stain removal agents
will not damage the fiber.
Today nylon is used in a myriad of common items, from
seat belts to ski boots, from conveyor belts to tool and appliance handles, from
lawn mower blades to ship propellers; umbrellas, paint brushes, hair brush bristles, toothbrush
bristles, fishing nets, parachute fabrics, ropes, sails, luggage, backpacks,
tents, and sleeping bags are made of nylon.
Other applications include fabrics for extreme
outdoor application. Nexten, a new
nylon fiber produced by Nylstar, is a hollow nylon fiber that is 30% lighter
than regular nylon and almost 40% lighter than polyester.
Techno is another nylon fiber that offers abrasion resistance five times
greater than standard nylon, higher tenacity and tensile strength and ten times
more tear resistance than polyester. You
will see these fibers in water and wind resistant garments for hiking, climbing
and biking.
References:
Kadolph, Sara and Langford, Anna. Textiles,
8th Edition, Prentice-Hall Publishing Company, Upper Saddle River, NJ.
Collier, Billie and Tortora, Phyllis.
Understanding Textiles, 6th Edition, Prentice-Hall Publishing
Company, Upper Saddle River, NJ.
Harris, Jennifer. Textiles,
5000 Years, Harry N. Abrams, Inc. New York, NY, 1993.
Humphries, Mary. Fabric
Handbook Reference, 2nd Edition, Don Mills, Ontario, Canada, 1992.
Gross, Elaine. "Nylon Expands Market Growth Beyond Carpets," Textile World, Volume 151, Number 2, February 2001.
Copyright
Nancy Kelley
Courtesy of Textile Fabric Consultants
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