HEMP, HEMP, HOORAY!

by

Nancy Kelley, Assistant Professor

Middle Tennessee State University

Courtesy of Textile Fabric Consultants  

Patagonia, Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Disney, Converse, Adidas, J. Crew, J. Jill.  What do they have in common?   They have all recently marketed products made from hemp, a fiber first used by the Chinese over 5000 years ago.  These products range from accessories (hats, shawls, ties, socks, belts and shoes) to apparel (shirts, ponchos, jeans, overalls, suits, pants, skirts, lingerie, jackets and dresses) to industrial products (luggage, animal leashes, wallets, bags, backpacks, webbing, coffee filters and rugs).  

Although the use of hemp clothing and other consumer goods has only recently gained popularity in the past several years, its use dates back to ancient times.  Hemp has played a very important role in American history. In the early 1600’s hemp was considered such a vital resource that laws were passed ordering farmers to grow it.  Thomas Jefferson and George Washington both grew hemp on their plantations.  The Betsy Ross flag was 100% hemp.  Gutenberg’s Bible and the Declaration of Independence were but two historical documents first recorded on paper made of hemp. Before 1850, all ships were rigged with hemp because of its high resistance to rot and mildew.   Conestoga wagon covers were made of hemp. Colonial taxes were often paid in hemp bales and soldier’s uniforms were made of hemp cloth.  The U.S. Census of 1850 counted 8,327 hemp plantations growing hemp for cloth, canvas and other necessities.  

It is also the subject of worldwide controversy that involves farmers, government enforcement agencies, environmentalists, supporters of legalized drugs, and manufacturers of textile, food and paper products.  The controversy stems from the fact that the hemp plant, “Cannabis sativa” comes in several varieties, one of which is the marijuana plant. The growing of hemp was banned in the United States in 1937. The ban made no distinction between the two kinds of hemp.  Industrial hemp used for textiles contains only about 0.3% THC as opposed to 2% THC in marijuana.  THC is the potentially psychoactive chemical in marijuana and is not presently, nor historically, found in significant quantities in the hemp plant.  You cannot get high smoking hemp, and it would be almost impossible to inhale because of its harshness.  Industrial hemp has no illicit use, and many activists’ state that hemp is the equivalent of nonalcoholic beer.

  For a brief period during World War II, the federal government sponsored a program to encourage farmers to grow hemp for the war effort, including a 1942 “Hemp for Victory Campaign.”  Since that brief interlude, cultivation has been illegal until 1999. For the first time since World War II, hemp seeds have been planted legally on American soil.  Hawaii is currently the only state to obtain permission from the DEA to grow industrial hemp and is trying to regenerate its farming program, which is suffering from the loss of its main export, sugar cane. Like Hawaii, North Dakota and Minnesota legalized the cultivation of industrial hemp and are planting crops this spring.   Twelve other states have introduced legislation.

  Environmental concerns caused the public to tout the advantages of hemp, and lobby for the legalization of hemp.  As opposed to cotton, hemp is one of the most environmentally friendly fibers in the world, requiring no pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers and very little water.   Almost half of the agricultural chemicals used on U. S. crops are applied to cotton.  Hemp is considered a high-yield crop and produces significantly more fiber per square foot that either cotton or flax.   While timber for paper pulp takes one hundred years to grow, hemp’s life cycle is only one hundred days. thus, hemp cultivation could stop the destruction of our forests.  According to our own government, hemp can produce four times as much pulp for paper as trees, given the same acreage. Tests have show that hemp exhibits eight times the strength of cotton.  Fabrics made from hemp are more insulative, more absorbent, and more durable than cotton.  Hemp has the look of classic linen and the feel of your favorite flannel.  Now, 75% of hemp grown worldwide is being turned into textiles.  

Hemp is not an inexpensive fiber, about 100% higher than cotton.  The high processing costs and limited quantities that are available are responsible for the higher cost. Beyond the problems of technology, hemp proponents are trying hard to overcome the obvious image problem.  A lifelong environmental activist, Woody Harelson has proven to be an effective spokesperson for the legalization of hemp.  Harrelson has been jailed several times, staging a planting of hemp seeds in support of farmers lobbing for legalization.  He has been seen sporting a custom made Giorgio Armani hemp tuxedo accessorized with hemp shoes.   

Keep yours eyes opens for hemp products in your area and support the Green Movement.  Rediscover what generations upon generations have known…Hemp is a great choice!  For more information about hemp products contact the Hemp Industries Association (www.thehia.org) or the North American Industrial Hemp Council (www.naihc.org).  

References:  

Inside Fashion, June 16- 30, 1998, page 18, “Hemp: Nature’s Hottest Fashion Offering”, by Delores Kelly Carson.

  Home Furnishings Network, June 8, 1998, page 21,  “The Natural Consumer: Going for the Green”, by Faye Musselman.

  Outfitter Magazine, June 1998, pag3 40, “Encore Performance: North American Hemp,” by Tony Jones.

DNR, May 4, 1998, page 12, “Fibers & Fabrics: Hemp Grows at IFEE, But NOT in U.S.”, by Gray Maycumber.

  Apparel Industry Magazine, August 1997, pate 68-69, “Coming to America: It’s High Time for Hemp’s Return”, by Faye Musselmlan.

  Outfitter Magazine Magazine, August 1997, page 34, “Growing Importance”, by Tony Jones.

  E Magazine, July/August 1996, page 48, “Rethinking Hemp”, by Anne W. Wilke.

What is hemp used for?  A – Z

  Archery strings

Baseball caps

Candy

Detergents

Erosion Control

Fabrics

Gloves

Hammocks

Inks

Jackets

Kick-sacks

Lip Balm

Moisturizers

Note Pads

Overalls

Parachutes

Quilts

Ribbons

Sandals

Tea

Upholstery

Varnishes

Wallpaper

Xeroxes

Yarns

Zoot Suits

Copyright Nancy Kelley           Courtesy of Textile Fabric Consultants  

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