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IS
PASHMINA PULLING THE WOOL OVER OUR EYES? by
Nancy Kelley, President Textile Fabric Consultants, Inc. Pashmina is the current buzzword of the fashion
industry and this seasons must have for the status seekers.
The pashmina wrap is now regarded as an essential component of the modern
womans wardrobe. A simple shawl costs $500.00 and can be found popping up
everywhere
from Nieman Marcus to ebay.com, in fashion magazines and on
celebrities. Pashmina is the finest wool shorn from the soft
undercoat (neck and belly) of Himalayan mountain goats.
Touted to be lighter, softer and finer than cashmere, pashmina has a
texture so fine it is the fiber equivalent of meringue according to
Veronica Chambers of Newsweek magazine. Designer Gabriele Sanders, known for her
embroidered pashmina shawls says, pashmina makes regular cashmere feel like
cardboard. The feather light
fiber is extraordinarily soft and light, yet exceptionally warm. Discovered by the fashion world only in the
past year, pashmina has been a status symbol in the East for hundreds of years.
In India and Nepal, a pashmina blanket was an essential component of a
wealthy womans dowry. Shawls and blankets woven from pashmina wool have been adored
for centuries in the Far East. And
like other things rarefied and Eastern, its been translated eagerly into
Western decadence. But according to Karl Spilhaus, president of
Bostons Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute, Pashmina is just
cashmere
theres no difference. Pashmina is simply the Indian word for
cashmere. He contributes all the
hype to the aggressive marketing of pashmina.
Spilhaus stresses that the better made pashminas are not rip-offs at all:
A good quality cashmere shawl is worth very dime you pay for it, and
it will last you a lifetime. Kenneth Langley, professor of textile sciences at the University of Massachusetts, agrees with Spilhaus. Cashmere fibers have a unique appearance under the microscope and pashmina fibers look exactly like cashmere fibers. Langley also says pashmina wool does not just come from the neck and belly. He claims the fibers are combed from the goat when they are molting. You obviously get as much as you can, and do not pick a place. The pashmina shawl trend has sparked an interest in shawls of all descriptions. The pashmina shawls are versatile, all-season pieces that may be worn over a bare or sleeveless dress on a cool summer night, with a suit in the fall, and with a coat in winter. The shawl can be wrapped around the upper body and worn as you would a jacket. The can be worn as a muffler around the neck or wrapped at the waist. Pashmina is often blended with silk, which sound more luxurious, but is not as good. It does make it lighter, but also makes it cheaper. In fact there is something even more luxurious
than pashmina
but its illegal. It
is called shahtoosh, and it comes from the fur of a chiru, an endangered Tibetan
antelope. A pure shahtoosh wrap is sometimes called a ring scarf because it is
so fine and delicate that a whole shawl can easily be slipped through a wedding
ring. It is also touted to be warm
enough to hatch a pigeons egg. To
clip the hair, hunters kill the animal. An
estimated three to five chirus are killed for each shawl. It is illegal to buy
or sell shahtoosh under the U.N.Convention on International Trade in Endangered
Species. References: Chambers, Veronica.
Newsweek, May 11, 1998 Passion
for Pashmina Chambers, Veronica.
Newsweek, October 7, 1999
Now, This Should Get Your
Goat White, Jackie. The Tennessean, January 2, 2000 The Frill is Back Copyright
Nancy Kelley
Courtesy of Textile Fabric Consultants
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