The Costumer's Manifesto is written by Tara Maginnis, and proudly hosted by William Baker.

THE MANIFESTO IS MUTATING!  IT IS TURNING INTO A WIKI THAT CAN BECOME THE HIVE MIND OF ALL COSTUMERS, FINALLY LIVING UP TO IT'S SLOGAN: "COSTUMERS OF THE WORLD, UNITE!" YOU CAN HELP IN THIS PROCESS BY MOVING PAGES TO THE NEW SITE AT THECOSTUMERSMANIFESTO.COM, HELPING TO EDIT THE PAGES THAT ARE THERE ALREADY, AND ADDING YOUR OWN ORIGINAL INPUT.

 

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The Mantua Project

This project is not yet complete.  At present I have only photos showing some of the steps I am taking to take an East Indian Salwar (long tunic), Bridal Lengha (skirt), matching Salwar and Dupatta (scarf), and re-cut and sew them into a c.1710 English style court Mantua.

The Original garments before alterations:

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The corsage embroidery on the extra salwar is cut out and made into a stomacher:    

 

 

PICT0114.JPG (319494 bytes) PICT0115.JPG (394660 bytes) Buckram is cut to stiffen the inside of the stomacher:  PICT0116.JPG (315589 bytes) The shoulder pieces are removed and saved: PICT0117.JPG (436916 bytes) PICT0118.JPG (339900 bytes) Lining fabric is cut to enclose the buckram.  PICT0119.JPG (355074 bytes)  The lining and embroidery are sewn together into a pocket into which the buckram is sewn.  PICT0120.JPG (369381 bytes)  

The shoulder leftovers are stuck together to make a useable piece:

PICT0146.JPG (407274 bytes) 

 

 

 The needed undergarments are put on the form in preparation for draping the mantua: PICT0121.JPG (284608 bytes) 

The stays have been covered with a silk that closely matches the dress, so that if the shoulder straps shift during wear, the stays will appear to be part of the neckline of the finished dress. 

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The stomacher is pinned to the stays. 

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The lengha is put over the hoop to figure out what changes will need to be made to the skirt.  

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The section where the shot silk is set in on a different grain becomes very obvious when put over a hoop, so plans are made to shift this section partly towards the back when the waistline is re-designed. 

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The center back seam with the mismatched embroidery will be re-assembled to match better, and shifted to become a side-seam.

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 Matching red cotton, taken from the lining of one of the salwars is draped around the form, cut, and sewn to make a simple inner bodice to which the draping of the mantua can be sewn. 

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The bridal salwar sleeves are twiddled with to see how best to turn them into an 18th Century style: PICT0137.JPG (255481 bytes)  PICT0138.JPG (253764 bytes) PICT0139.JPG (357466 bytes)

The bridal salwar is disassembled. 

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The sleeves of the other salwar are disassembled: PICT0145.JPG (353925 bytes)  

 

The salwar fronts are draped and cut to form the side front of the bodice continuing down into the side front of the skirt

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The Costumer's Manifesto is proudly hosted by William Baker.

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This Page is part of The Costumer's Manifesto by Tara Maginnis, Ph.D.  Copyright 1996-2010.   You may print out any of these pages for non-profit educational use such as school papers, teacher handouts, or wall displays.  You may link to any page in my site.

This page last edited on 12/27/2007