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Costume Design & Construction

Renaissance Hat 2D+10C

If you have not sewn very much before this begin by reading THINGS NOBODY TELLS YOU ABOUT SEWING MACHINES and this may clear up a few typical problems before they start.  

Gather together the following materials:

• A sewing machine (with instruction book)
• Sharp scissors 
• A soft measuring tape 
• Pins and pincushion 
• Sewing needles for the machine, and for sewing by hand 

Complete Book of Sewing

The Costume Designer's Handbook : A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Designers

The Costume Technician's Handbook : A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Technicians

 

Stage Costume Step-By-Step : The Complete Guide to Designing and Making Stage Costumes for All Major Drama Periods and Genres

The Magic Garment : Principles of Costume Design

Costume Construction

Elegantly Frugal Costumes : The Poor Man's Do-It-Yourself Costume Maker's Guide

• Thread
• 1 yard of hat fabric
• 1/2 yard of heavy interfacing
• Trims as preferred (feather is suggested)
• Pattern paper (can be butcher paper, grid pattern paper, or newspaper)
• Poster board or a large piece of cardstock
• Alternate Pattern method: Buy Simplicity Pattern 5972

Step 2:

Measure your head with the tape. Lay the tape out on the poster board  in a rough oval, and mark it in pencil.  Draw another concentric oval 2&1/2 inches further outside the first oval. Cut this out. 

Try to put the cut out piece on your head,  If it fits comfortably as is, this is now the pattern for the brim of your hat.  If not, trim with scissors till it is comfortable and sits properly. If you need to, make another pattern. It is easier and cheaper to twiddle with the pattern at this point than when you have cut it out of fabric. Once you have a fitted brim pattern, lay it on the pattern paper and make another oval, 2&1/2" bigger all around than the brim.  Cut it out, this is the gathered crown.

Step 3:

Lay the Brim pattern onto  the hat fabric at least 1/2" away from the edge.  Cut out two layers of fabric, adding 1/2" of seam allowance (extra fabric) both to the inside and outside edges of the pattern.  Cut a single layer of the interfacing the same way.  Cut one layer of hat fabric using the crown pattern, also adding 1/2" seam allowance.

Step 4:

Sew the three brims together at 1/2" away from the outer edge; the interfacing should be on top, and the right sides of the fabric face together.

Step 5:

Trim most of the seam allowance away. Turn the right sides of the brim fabric outside and press.

Step 6:

Gather or pleat the crown to the brim as shown.(pins help). Sew crown to brim with a 1/2" seam allowance. 

Step 7:

(Optional) Cut a lining from the crown pattern, gather and sew to the inside with a blind stitch. Sew braid, beads, or jewels to the join between brim and crown, trim with a feather and/or a hat brooch.  You need not be limited by historic reality!

For historic examples see below:

Step 8:

When it is finished, photograph the hat as jpeg files and post them to your File folder at the class eGroup.  Post a message to the group letting everyone know you have posted these pictures so you can get feedback.

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