1891 Woman's Wool Jacket

	Black early 1890's woman's jacket black wool, with a self woven stripe. The jacket doesn't close and there are no markings  to indicate that it ever did.		Nine button inside vest with a high round collar. Collar is closed with 2 pairs of hooks and eyes. The hooks are on the right side, eyes on the left.
	Sleeves have braid detail imitating cuff detail.		All seams are bound to finish the edges. With a narrow grosgrain ribbon.Armseyes are bound in bias cut cotton (?). Sleeve heads have a separate interior piece made of cotton and horsehair to hold out the sleeves
	Jacket and vest are both unlined except for the sleeves which are lined for aprox, 3 inches up from the cuff edge. Entire outer edge of garment is bound in silk middy braid.  Jacket also has 2 welt pockets which are also bound in middy braid.     The sleeve is a standard 2 piece coat sleeve.		Hem of jacket and vest both have 1"silk grosgrain to finish the hems. The hems are also stiffened with horsehair, to help keep the hem shape.      The front edge of the jacket is self faced and has horsehair to stiffen it. Right front at the hem edge below the pocket has a dart not present on the left front.
	The button holes are 1 3/4" apart. The top button hole is 3/4 " down from the top edge . The bottom button hole is 2" up from the bottom edge. All button holes are 3/8" in from the edge.The nine buttonholes are handworked		Collar of vest is lined in black bias cut silk. The stiffening is horsehair. Front of vest has a narrow facing of black silk and lightweight stiffening the same as in   the sleeve stiffeners The vest is only the fronts and collar. The vest is sewn by hand to the jacket on the side and shoulder seams.
	Pattern of woman's 1891 jacket .          Scale is 1/8	Page by Lorraine Pettit

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