Diamonds were used to the almost total exclusion of other gems until the 1750’s when color in jewelry enjoyed a revival. To meet the increased demand for white stones in the first half of the century, paste, rock crystal, markasite, and cut steel were employed with increasing sophistication. These alternatives to diamonds were soon produced with such good quality that it was entirely respectable for royalty to wear them. Cut steel was especially popular because of its practical wear ability for ordinary day use on shoe buckles, knee buckles, and buttons.

The 18th Century also introduced several new forms of jewelry, the most typical being the corsage, a kind of diamond stomacher. It was in use for court dress for the whole middle part of the century.

Stomacher and other 1760's jewelry patterns from Diderot

Another innovation, the aigrette, consisted of a spray of diamonds and was usually worn over the right ear on the hair.

     
1760's jewelry patterns from Diderot

However, the most interesting development was the chatelaine, a piece of everyday jewelry worn by both men and women. Suspended form the waist, it was used to carry watches, seals, needle-cases, keys, scissors, and penknives.

After the French Revolution, neoclassical motifs became popular in jewelry all over Europe, and the style-setting French in their republican mood shifted into Roman revival styles.

Decorated Swords for Gentlemen from Diderot's Encyclopedia, c.1762.  Click here to go on to Jewelry Images from Diderot's Encyclopedia, c.1762.

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