Corsets and Crinolines

The History of Underclothes

  The Corset: A Cultural History Underwear: Beneath Historic Fashions Calendar 2003

Available from the Nightmare Factory

Period Costume for Stage & Screen : Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800

Queen of Fashion What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution Books Caroline Weber

"My dear Louisa, you will laugh when I tell you that poor Winifred, who was reduced to be my gentlewoman’s gentlewoman broke two laces in endeavoring to draw my new French stays closed. You know I am naturally small at bottom, but now you might literally span me. You never saw such a doll. Then they are so intolerably wide across the breast, that my arms are absolutely sore with them; and my sides are so pinched! But it is the ‘ton’ and pride feels no pain. It is with these sentiments the ladies of the present age heal their wounds; to be admired is a sufficient balsam." 

Quote on 1780's corsets in Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines

"Cork Rumps are necessary to counter-balance the extraordinary natural weight which some ladies carry before them."

"It was impossible she should sink -- she owed her life to the cork rump, the use of which I recommend to all ladies who love boating."

---Quotes of the 1780s

Early stays from Leloir:

English boned bodices from the Museum of London. Museum of London - Costume Collection

High Resolution version (around 450k)

French Stays and stomachers, 1710-20 from the Musee du Costume, Paris Galliera. 

High Resolution version (around 450k)

Diagram of a boned bodice/stays.

Pattern of a c.1715 pair of stays

Costume Close Up : Clothing Construction and Pattern, 1750-1790

Fitting & Proper (Similar to above)

Many authors of modern historical Romances have a way of meticulously costuming their 18th Century heroines for their activities in the ballroom and drawing rooms, but conveniently forgetting the awkwardness of such attire in the bedroom. In order to live up their racy titles and covers, Romantic fiction portrays 18th Century passion as occurring as rapidly as if every dress seam was merely closed with Velcro, and corsets were fastened with zippers.  

Links:

• A Speedy 18th Century Corset

• 18th Century Corset Pattern from Karl Kohler

• Gallery of Costume -Cane and Linen Hoop 1760-1780

• Gore stockings c. 1720-1740 United States

• 18th Century Stays

• Manthey on 18th Century Reenacting - includes detailed pdf pattern and instructions for making 18th century stockings