The Costumer's Manifesto is written by Tara Maginnis, and proudly hosted by William Baker.

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PERFUMES FOR THE PERIOD SCENT
by Tara Maginnis

While scented waters were common even in Ancient times, the first true perfume extract in the modern sense was not created until the 10th Century A.D., when the famous Islamic physician, Avicenna, first discovered the process of distilling oil from the petals of roses. This essence, diluted with water, became rose water, the first modern perfume. Since then every period in European history has had its own signature scents, and a number of the most popular ones continue to be used today. A person wishing to add the final period touch to the fashion "statement" of their costume can sometimes find a suitable period scent no further away than their local drugstore or department store.

Early, simple scents like lavender water and rose water have never lost their popularity, and some of the complex perfumes that were developed later enjoyed decades, and even centuries of common use. What follows is a chronology of some of those period perfumes which continue to be available for sale, and a list of sources for buying them. All of them, obviously, have been used continuously since their invention, and so can be used for any period after their origin.

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You can support my site by buying products offered by my affiliate sponsors:

Santa Maria Novella Patchouli Fragrance for Men

Santa Maria Novella Orange Blossom Water

Santa Maria Novella Gold Musk Fragrance

  Number Six Mount Vernon Collection

Fragrance, the Story of Perfume from Cleopatra to Chanel

Acqua di Genova Cologne

Michelsen's Bay Rum Cologne - 3 oz.

Vintage Face

Authentic 1940s Hairstyles : Tips and Tricks For Creating Authentic 1940s Hairstyles

Risqué Beauty: Beauty Secrets of History's Most Notorious Courtesans

1940s Hairstyles

Secrets of Aromatic Jewelry

Plucked, Shaved & Braided: Medieval and Renaissance Beauty

 and Grooming Practices 1000-1600

  CHRONOLOGY:

  • Rose Water

  • Rose Water-Distilled by the Islamic physician, Avicenna in the 10th Century.

  • Lavender Water

  • Lavender Water-Distilled by German Benedictine nun, Hildegard of Bingen in the 12th Century.

  • Hungary Water-The first Alcoholic perfume, originally concocted for Elizabeth of Hungary in 1370.

  • Eau de Cologne-18th Century variant on Hungary water developed by the Farina brothers in Cologne, Germany.

  • Lily of the Valley and Rose Geranium-Mid-18th Century perfumes by Floris of London, founded in 1730.

  • No. Six Cologne-Was made from a formula brought to America from England in 1752 by the founder of Caswell and Massey, Dr. William Hunter. The most popular scent in early America, it was sent as a gift to Lafayette by Washington while he was President.

  • No. 4711 Original Eau de Cologne Spray 

  • 4711 Cologne-Based on a formula made by a French émigré friar, this scent was named after the house number assigned to the Mulhens Family perfumery's shop during the 1794 French occupation of Cologne. Napoleon used to bathe in a diluted version of this scent. 

  • Eau de Cologne Imperiale-Scent developed in the Mid-19th Century for the Empress Eugenie by Guerlain. 

  • Lilac Vegetal-After-shave made for the Hungarian cavalry attached to the court of Napoleon III by Edouard Pinaud, the court perfumer. 

  • Florida Water -Citrus-based American variant on Eau de Cologne from 1856.

  • Hoyt's Cologne-Another American version of Eau de Cologne made in 1868.
  • Jicky Jicky-First highly-concentrated perfume (like 20th Century perfumes), made by Guerlain in 1889.

  • Floris No. 127-Made in 1890 exclusively for Russia's Grand Duke Orloff, it was re-introduced in the 1940's when it became a favorite of Eva Peron.

  • Pink Geranium-Floris scent introduced in 1890.

  • Red Rose-Edwardian scent by Floris used most famously by Rosa Lewis, owner of the Cavendish Hotel.

  • L'Heure Bleue L'Heure Bleue-Guerlain perfume of 1912.

  • Pavlova Pavlova-1922 perfume that quickly died until it was revived again in the 1980's. (Catch it while you can, it appears to be going under again, despite a subtle exotic scent reminiscent of Shalimar.)

  • CosmeticMall.com:: CHANEL No. 5 PERFUME (For Women) Chanel No. 5-The first expensively produced perfume using artificial scents, a strikingly modern innovation in 1920.

  •   Shalimar-"Eastern" style scent produced in 1925 by Guerlain.

  • Joy -"The most expensive perfume in the world" blended in 1926 for Patou.

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1950s Hair: Hairstyles from the Atomic Age of Cool Over the Top: Helena Rubinstein Extraordinary Style Beauty Art Fashion Design

Henna Tattoo Set Henna Tattoo Set   Roger and Gallet Vetyver Cologne

Period Make-Up for the Stage: Step-By-Step

 

Sources for obtaining period perfumes that are still in use include:

Perfume Emporium 

PerfumeMart.Com

Search Perfumania.com:
All-Perfumes.com - Find any discount perfume!

Caswell and Massey Co., Ltd. Mail-Order Division 111 8th Ave. New York, NY 10011 (212) 620-0900

No. 6 Cologne, Rose Water, Lavender Water and others

Crabtree and Evelyn Limited Box 167 Woodstock Hill, CT 06281 (800) 624-5211

Rose Water, Hungary Water, Eau de Cologne, Lavender Water and others

Floris PO Box 1375 Port Washington, NY 11050 (800) J-FLORIS

Lily of the Valley,Rose Geranium, Floris No. 127, Pink Geranium, Red Rose and others

Guerlain (800) 882-8820

Eau de Cologne Imperiale, Jicky, L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar

Department Stores:

4711 Cologne, Pavlova, Chanel No. 5, Joy and some Guerlain perfumes

Drugstores:

4711 Cologne, Lilac Vegetal, Florida Water, Hoyt's Cologne

Spiritual Baths and Washes (Learn about traditional African American mojo uses of these vintage scents here):

 

The Annette Green Perfume Museum Exhibits Museum & Galleries FIDM

This article originally appeared in The Lady's Gallery magazine.

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For more on the history of perfume & cosmetics, see Mask and Makeup Links: History of Makeup, Perfume and Cosmetics

More Period Perfumes:

Jockey Club Moisturizing Shave Balm - 3 oz.
 
Jockey Club Cologne Spray - 3 oz.
Jockey Club Soap in a Tin
1828 Eau De Parfum
 
 
 
Orange Flower Water

 

The Costumer's Manifesto is proudly hosted by William Baker.

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This Page is part of The Costumer's Manifesto by Tara Maginnis, Ph.D.  Copyright 1996-2010.   You may print out any of these pages for non-profit educational use such as school papers, teacher handouts, or wall displays.  You may link to any page in my site.

This page last edited on 05/02/2010