The Costumer's Manifesto is written by Tara Maginnis, and proudly hosted by William Baker.

THE MANIFESTO IS MUTATING!  IT IS TURNING INTO A WIKI THAT CAN BECOME THE HIVE MIND OF ALL COSTUMERS, FINALLY LIVING UP TO IT'S SLOGAN: "COSTUMERS OF THE WORLD, UNITE!" YOU CAN HELP IN THIS PROCESS BY MOVING PAGES TO THE NEW SITE AT THECOSTUMERSMANIFESTO.COM, HELPING TO EDIT THE PAGES THAT ARE THERE ALREADY, AND ADDING YOUR OWN ORIGINAL INPUT.

 

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Objects of Desire:

Expensive and/or Hard to find Books we all wish we had (aka "The Costumer's Xmas List")

Dangerous Liaisons : Fashion and Furniture in the Eighteenth Century (Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications)

Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd: The inventories of the Wardrobe of Robes prepared in July 1600, edited from Stowe MS 557 in the British Library, MS LR 2/121 in the Public Record Office, London, and MS V.b.72 in the Folger Shakespeare Library, Washington DC Janet Arnold, the late, lamented goddess of costume research did this detailed study of every surviving garment, wardrobe record and portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, where she attempted wherever possible to match up the garments and portraits with the detailed wardrobe accounts kept by the government of the day.  The only complaint to be found is that few of the pictures are in color.  This large format book is considered the apex of detailed, stringent costume research work. An online Janet Arnold Biography

Nineteenth-Century Fashion in Detail

Madeleine Vionnet by Betty Kirkie and Issey Miyake has a detailed history of this pioneer of bias cutting, along with many patterns, diagrams and photos of Vionnet's best work.  

Dressing a Galaxy: The Costume of Star Wars Limited Edition with DVD
Dressing a Galaxy : The Costumes of Star Wars

Fashion a La Mode : The Pop-Up History of Costumes and Dresses an artist's riff on the history of dress makes this a decadent little pop up book for adults who drool over fine clothing and fine bookmaking.

Art and Fashion : The Impact of Art on Fashion and Fashion on Art
 
Artwear: Fashion and Anti-Fashion A yummy book based on a yummy exhibit
  An Elegant Art : Fashion and Fantasy in the Eighteenth Century Yummy exhibition catalog of the LA County Art Museum's most memorable exhibit.  Each chapter is an individual essay on a related topic by an expert in the field, from period movement and dance to embroidery to 18th Century textile designs and more, lavishly illustrated in color & B&W.

 

Set and Costume Designs for Ballet and Theater Alexander Schouvaloff (I've got it! Courtesy of my Mom finding out I was a footnote in it. Shouvaloff used to be the V&A curator of Theatre Prints, then the first curator of the new Theatre Museum in London. This means all his books are filled with prints few folks have had access to until recently, plus an amazing degree of research and scholarship on the artist's involved. ALL his books are OofD's, not just this one.)

The Art of Ballets Russes : The Serge Lifar Collection of Theater Designs, Costumes, and Paintings at the Wadsworth Atheneum, Hartford, Connecticut, Alexander Schouvaloff.

The Art of Haute Couture is a big heavy stack of color photos of details and overviews of great couture garments of the 20th century, with a bit of text and binding to glue it together.  The pictures are the thing, and there are lots of them.

Cut of Men's Clothes : 1600-1900, Norah Waugh (The pre-Janet Arnold historic pattern goddess, Waugh made triple duty books that included 1/3 patterns from antiques, 1/3 patterns from historic books, and 1/3 writing from contemporary sources on clothing at the time. Despite their expense, these books are really must-haves, especially this one that has the many patterns for men's clothing during the period covered).

The Cut of Women's Clothes, 1600-1930 Norah Waugh (ditto what I said above, save only that Janet Arnold has superceded this book's preeminence with her own.)
Corsets and Crinolines Also by Norah Waugh, with history and patterns.
Chinese Clothing : An Illustrated Guide, Valery M. Garrett (Highly illustrated, and high on drool factor)

Art to Wear Lavish gorgeous and amazing.  Memorable pieces of Wearable art from the 1970's-1990's.  All color large format, just add legs and it is your coffee table...

The History of Beads : From 30,000 B.C. to the Present Lois Sherr Dubin (Hardback version with fold out chart) (The "Bible" on beads in a gleaming, huge color coffee table book version, without anything missing. If you can't possibly afford it, get the shorter paperback version, but if you can afford it the bead chart alone makes this version the most useful bead book ever produced.) 

Period Costume for Stage & Screen : Patterns for Women's Dress, Medieval-1500 Jean Hunnisett, Kathryn Turner (Illustrator) Worth every penny of it's hefty price tag, this book is high on scholarship, illustrations, easy to understand text and diagrams, and is one of the best, most detailed how-to manuals for costumers ever written. I had been working as a costumer for almost 20 years when I first saw this book and still, I'd say lots of it's techniques were a revelation. It shows in essence, how to reproduce costumes in this period in such a way as to make them indistinguishable from originals. 

Period Costume for Stage & Screen : Patterns for Women's Dress, 1800-1909, Jean Hunnisett, Kathryn Turner (Illustrator), another volume like the above.

Men's Seventeenth & Eighteenth Century Costume : Cut and Fashion R. I. Davis A very similar book to the above, covering Menswear 1600-1800.  I've just got my copy and it is a total drool-fest, with patterns, photos and text showing period reality, and film/theatre designs that attempt to interpret that reality.

Period Costume for Stage and Screen : Patterns for Outer Garments: Cloaks, Capes, Stoles and Wadded Mantles Same author, same idea...

Our New Clothes : Acquisitions of the 1990s Photos and text on the costume objects that The Metropolitan Museum of Art acquired during the 1990's.

Fashion in Detail : From the 17th and 18th Centuries Yummy detailed photos of museum garments of the 17th and 18th Centuries.  One of the less expensive drool objects to be found, it nonetheless is full of color pictures and clear tiny diagrams. 

The Art of Dress : Clothes and Society, 1500-1914, Jane Ashelford.  Photos from collections held by the National Trust (UK), with an interesting narrative showing how these items relate to and illuminate British social history.  Another bargain full of great pictures and interesting text.

  Haute Couture & Pret-A-Porter : Mode 1750-2000 This tasty paperback has lots of great photos of early museum originals inside, despite it's rather plain, modernist cover.

Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwoman's Dresses and Their Construction: c.1660-1860 by Janet Arnold the late, great, goddess of us all.  Patterns from museum originals drawn on a 1/8" grid to 1/8 scale, plus line drawings and construction details telling you exactly how the beasts went together.  Great scholarship put into a form that has instant application to reproducing costumes for theatre or reenactment in real life.

Patterns of Fashion 2 : Englishwomen's Dresses and Their Construction C.1860-1940 See above.

Patterns of Fashion : The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women C1560-1620 Like the above, but further off the diving board.  Includes men's patterns too, plus photos and essays on the clothes.  You know this woman was truly devoted to her research the moment you start reading about the damage to the original costumes caused by the messy fact that most were once grave clothes.

Irving Penn Regards the Work of Issey Miyake : Photographs 1975-1998 Issey Miyake is the pattern drafting god of our time.  In this book a notable modern photographer shows his best examples of his work in their best light.

Eiko on Stage Designs by one of the most avant-garde theatre and film designers of our time.
Costume in Detail : 1730-1930 Hand drawn pictures show details of women's clothing construction that can't be made clear in photos.  Invaluable tool for museum professionals and vintage clothing collectors to "date" garments by details of sewing construction, also useful for people who want to replicate clothes to a high degree of exactitude.
20,000 Years of Fashion : The History of Costume and Personal Adornment the big fat book with more information and pictures per inch than any other.  I blame this one for having got me into costumes in the first place.  

The Costumer's Manifesto is proudly hosted by William Baker.

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This Page is part of The Costumer's Manifesto by Tara Maginnis, Ph.D.  Copyright 1996-2010.   You may print out any of these pages for non-profit educational use such as school papers, teacher handouts, or wall displays.  You may link to any page in my site.